I’d been to Buenos Aires for business before, but after visiting the city again for two and a half weeks of exploration and vacation this year, I came to understand why Buenos Aires is recognized as Latin America’s current capital of cool. By Kim Keating

Reminiscent of Paris with its wide boulevards and parks it also hints at other parts of Europe in its architecture, food and art. This is a place that means something different to anyone you ask and is a must visit destination for anyone, regardless of age or nationality.

To some Buenos Aires means Tango, the sensual and nostalgic dance that has witnessed a revival in the last decade with new singers and songwriters producing a tango full of energy. The Milongo (tango dance hall) scene can be found in clubs sprinkled throughout the city and attracts a small group of men and women searching for the perfect dance. Tango music and dance can be seen every week through a variety of concerts and shows in venues from the classic and gorgeous Colon theatre to the street corners and small tango bars in the famous barrio of San Telmo.

One old world place for great tango is Bar Sur, an intimate corner bar with only a dozen tiny tables and an amazing show performed just a few feet away from you. The setting evokes a Buenos Aires of the past and the emphasis on participation makes it fun for those who want to try to learn a step or two.

To others, the city is all about sports. Visitors can rally for tickets to the local Boca/River matches and share the spectacle with thousands of other screaming and passionate fans. One of the best restaurants for a local experience is El Obrero, a very traditional parilla located in La Boca on an out-of-the way street. There's plenty of sports history all over the walls and incredible food and service in a warehouse setting at a very low cost! Worth the effort…take a taxi to and from after dark.

 The working class barrio of La Boca is also an historical area to visit and witness the waterfront area where the tango was first invented over a century ago. Tourists flock here in the daytime to see the colorful Caminito area where they can enjoy lunch, a variety of street performers and a few drinks. The eclectic and brightly colored artwork of this barrio is a collage of famous historical characters and scenes. Not a safe place to contemplate after dark, but a must visit during the day. 

How could the tenderness of the meat from the Pampas and the quality of any bottle of Argentine wine be overlooked on a trip to this city? Most people have heard about the melt-in-your-mouth, juicy steaks the size of your head that are available for ridiculously low prices…try 10 dollars? Add a bottle of the Mendoza red, a rich mellow Malbec , or a crisp fresh white Torrontes from Salta, my new favorite. Check out the wine lists at great restaurants like Casa Cruz; Sucre, an unbelievable foodie experience with one of the best wine lists in BA; or Standard which is set up like a modernized 50's diner and serves traditional Argentine fare with a twist. Olsen is a fantastic place for brunch and has a lovely garden where you can sit and sample innovative cocktails and an array of vodkas within its Scandanavian designed enclave. Other bars you won't want to miss are Home Hotel bar which serves up some of the best cocktails and tapas in town every night along with great music on Friday nights, and the unforgettable Milion, an old mansion turned bar and restaurant…a gorgeous place. For vegetarian or vegan eaters, the best place I found in town is Verde Llama, an all raw foods restaurant run by a health minded young couple and nestled in Palermo Hollywood.

There is such an eclectic mix of architecture, fashion, art, music, parks, concerts…something for everyone…that I'd recommend reading up on all of the choices. In the meantime, here are a few of my favorites:

Casa Rosada (or Pink House) was built in 1873 and it houses the presidential offices. It faces the Plaza de Mayo which was first laid out in 1580, renamed after the date Argentina declared independence from Spain (May 25, 1819) and famous now for the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, the mothers who still march around the plaza on Thursdays at 3:30 in their never-ending campaign to find out what happened to their sons in the Dirty War during the military dictatorship of 1976-83.

There are many good museums in the city, but if you can only visit one, check out the MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinamericano de Buenos Aires, It showcases the work of classic and contemporary Latin American artists. On your way to the nearby parks of Palermo, this museum has a hip, clean café with indoor and outdoor seating and great light fare for lunch. If you like museum gift shops, you'll want to stop in this one.

Make sure to go for a walk in the Palermo Parks.  Jardin Japones is a tranquil stop with koi ponds, small arched bridges, a sushi restaurant and a tea ceremony included in the price of the ticket. Just past this park is the Museo Evita. The exhibits there walk you through her life as they show you videos, historical photos, news highlights from old papers, and even her well preserved wardrobe. 

Possibly the most visited attraction in the city, the Cementario de Recoleta is a necropolis full of the city's most famous historical names. Its maze of narrow lanes holds marble sarcophagi, cats by the dozens resting in the sun at the base of impressive statues and a variety of architectural styles in extravagant marble tombs from neoclassical and neo-Gothic to art nouveau and art deco. You can wander for hours and it's a constant photo op for anyone with an eye for art. Don't forget that Evita is buried here.  As long as you are in Recoleta, the Alvear Palace Hotel is the classiest place in Buenos Aires and is a great place to stop for a truly elegant high tea. 

While some think first of art, sports, or gastronomic delights, others are drawn to Buenos Aires for the fashion. There a number of great places to shop including Patio Bullrich in Retiro, Buenos Aires Design in Recoleta, or the Galerias Pacifico in Microcentro. However, if you want personal attention and something designed just for you, you won't want to miss a store called Silvia y Mario. Silvia will personally attend to your every buttery suede or soft leather need while one of her tailors measures you and her assistants make sure that your suede blazer, leather pants or shearling coat are ready for you within days. Silvia is the personification of the Buenos Aires woman, a Sophia Loren of Argentina whose age you can't possibly guess while she proudly boasts about her grandchild.

For those who might get restless and want an out of town experience, I recommend Temaiken Zoo, an hour out of the city by bus in Escobar (Bus 60 Semirapido, from Plaza Italia, the bus says 'Vamos a Temaiken') and a perfect day trip to one of the best kept, clean and pleasant zoos I've ever visited. The animals at Temaikén live in well kept large exhibits, the lawn and grass are watered and lush, the waters are clear, and the sidewalks are well-maintained.

Or try San Antonio de Areco, a gaucho town out on the grassy plains called the Pampas (Chevallier bus from Retiro). Try a day at one of the farms where you can enjoy an Asado, a traditional Argentine Barbeque, after a day on horseback.

I could go on and on with many other suggestions. There are so many reasons to visit this beautiful city and the choices for great things to experience seem limitless Suffice it to say that this is one place where the exchange rate is still great, people are both beautiful and pleasant, and the opportunities to sample great art, food, architecture, music and more are present at every corner. Go and have fun!

Kim Keating is Director of Public Relations at Tuck School of Business at Dartmouth in Hanover, New Hampshire, USA

Photo: Jonathan Hillis